Outside of stops at Deanie’s Seafood for take-away boiled
crabs, I’ve never spent much time in the section of Metairie known as
Bucktown. However, some recent rumblings
in po-boy print have made me reconsider this position. First was Serious Eats
and their duo of 36 Hours in New Orleans: The Budget Edition and their ideal New Orleans Day Trip. Second was the always excellent but sadly
former food writer for the Times Picayune, Brett Anderson. For those unaware,
Anderson has been trying to comb through the world of Nola roast beef po-boys
in pursuit of his best, and after downing pound after pound of beef, he arrived
at R & O’s as his favorite. With visions of a gravy induced stupor
running through my mind, I got off the interstate and drove down West End Blvd
towards R & O’s.
Arriving in the middle of a busy lunch hour, it was a few
minutes before I got to my table. From there, it was a quick look at the menu
and then my order was placed for a half roast beef, half shrimp po-boy. Little did I know that, minutes later, my
view on po-boys was about to change.


This was the first time I had encountered a sesame seed
po-boy loaf in New Orleans, much less one that had been toasted. However the
bread was a nonissue compared to the tar like beef and gravy contained within
the loaf. Looking inky black and dry, I was expecting the first taste to be
completely burnt.
Once my first bite shattered through the crispy po-boy loaf,
I was greeted with a deep, dark, and exceedingly rich flavor that was brimming
with the essence of roast beef.
The fact that the top half of the loaf had been dipped in
the gravy and then toasted was groundbreaking and that each of the baton shaped
shreds of beef were coated in that silky, deep gravy only reinforced the
obscenely delicious flavor of this po-boy.
I could have ended my lunch there and been quite content but
there was still half of a shrimp po-boy staring me down.


While this po-boy was hardly overflowing with shrimp, there
was the perfect amount for each bite to have the briny crunch of fried shrimp.
Speaking of briny, while these shrimp were plump and juicy,
they were on the salty side. As for the rest of the po-boy, the toasted sesame
loaf only reinforced the crunchiness of the shrimp, but a shot of hot sauce was
needed to bring the mayo and rest of the dressings in line.
While the shrimp po-boy was a perfectly fine example of the
breed, it hardly warrants a special trip to Bucktown, but the roast beef is
another story. Calling what R & O’s does with their roast beef po-boy
unique is an understatement, this one lunch very well may have reshaped what I
think a New Orleans roast beef po-boy should be or at the very least chipped
away at the foundation of my belief that Tracey’s serves New Orlean’s best.
Regardless, I will come back to R & O’s, if only for their roast beef, and,
from now on, I’ll be hard pressed to leave the city without a taste of that
sinfully rich po-boy.
R & O’s Address & Information
216 Old Hammond Highway, Metairie, LA 70005 //504.831.1248



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