Sunday, April 25, 2010

Bone's Steakhouse - Atlanta

I shouldn’t have to justify wanting a steak. Hackneyed as it is, there really is something fantastic about that primal urge to consume large quantities of high quality beef. I also shouldn’t have to justify wanting to go to Bone’s, it’s the Atlanta steak house. Bone’s has won “Best Steak House” from Atlanta Magazine for almost 20 years on the trot. Zagat even ranks Bone’s with the highest marks for food & service in the United States. The only thing I might have to justify is getting a beef behemoth for lunch.

Actually I went to Bone’s looking for something relatively light, maybe a soup and salad or a steak sandwich at the most. However, I quickly remembered, this is a steak house and I don’t come here often enough, I need a proper piece of beef. Also, the last time I went to a steak house and ordered something besides steak, it didn’t work out too well.

Here’s a bit of an odd sight, random vegetables at a steak house

Don’t worry, there’s plenty of quality ranch to negate any healthy benefits of those veggies, good pickles too.

To me, there’s a sublime simplicity to a proper shrimp cocktail.

It’s that combination of cold, jumbo shrimp and horseradish saturated cocktail sauce that makes it worthwhile.

The shrimp had a satisfying snap and there was a quality cocktail sauce for the dipping. You’d best savor these shrimp as the price is a little staggering, but it’s worth it.

With my steak I decided to try a side of grit fritters.

There’s a tender, crispy crust to each one of these fritters and a creamy center lurks just beneath that crust. Actually these fritters tasted like they were made with mascarpone cheese. Even so, they were a little bland inside. I thought the accompanying cream sauce would help, and while it’s quite nice, it too needed a good shot of pepper.

Dry aged, bone-in, these are some very necessary adjectives for one my favorite steaks, the ribeye.

I immediately noticed a small fault with this steak. There wasn’t a real thick, heavy crust that you get from a high heat sear.

Even without the crust, this was an excellent steak, well cooked to between medium-rare and medium. Each bite brought that big, beefy flavor that I expect from a quality steak house selection. It’s hard to find something new about steak, but believe me, this ribeye is that good.

One bit of advice I’ll give is to skip the fritters if you’re ordering a steak. This isn’t a slight towards the steak or the fritters, but the rich fritter sauce completely coats your tongue and keeps you from truly enjoying that ribeye. Thankfully the waiter left the pickles on the table. All that brine helped cut through the fat and let me savor the dry aged goodness. Other than that, Bone’s really is as good as they say. It’s that classic combination of dark wood, excellent service, high quality beef, and good whiskey, and one of my favorites.

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